tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22393153800859525062024-03-13T16:57:15.567+00:00Knitting FiendishlyA spot where I can record all the obsessive details of my needlework, as precisely as I want.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.comBlogger454125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-36573784271454047962017-11-15T13:37:00.001+00:002017-11-15T13:37:19.718+00:00Navel-gazing, or, a foray into the depths of imposter syndromeIt's been a whole year since I started seriously planning the <a href="http://knittingfiendishly.blogspot.co.uk/2016/11/the-next-thing.html">Next Big Thing</a>, which eventually became the Raglan Basket Project. Since then, my blog posting has been rather sporadic. It's not that I'm not making things, it's...<br />
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Well. It's a bunch of things, which is why I'm indulging in a spot of public introspection about the whole situation.<br />
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<i><b>Problem the First</b></i> - real life. I'm really busy. And the really busy is about 75% good busy, but it's all high-brain stuff. Sewing doesn't take a great deal of brain. Writing coherently does. So when I get home at the end of the day, writing up the research and taking photos of the stuff I've been doing gets sidelined because frankly, I don't have the energy to do anything but sit on my arse with some hemming.<br />
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<i><b>Problem the Second</b></i> - deadlines, self-imposed and otherwise. If I need to get a thing done by a certain date, finishing the thing takes priority over writing about the thing. When the thing is planning and cooking for large crowds of people at events, the grocery shopping is more important than writing up my redactions.<br />
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<i><b>Problem the Third</b></i> - long-term projects are boring. Boring to make, boring to write about. "I cut out all the fabric for a frock. Here is a photo of the pieces. Here is a photo of my hemming. Here is another. Oh look, another photo of hemming, yay." It's not like I'm keeping a private diary of what I'm doing. The blog is public, and I feel obliged to make it at least mildly amusing to the people reading it. (Good job on that with this post, self.)<br />
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<i><b>Problem the Fourth</b></i> - screwing up in public is horrible. This is a really big one. My sense of self-worth is largely predicated on doing a good job and not screwing up. I don't want to admit to my failures and mistakes, let alone document them on the internet. I know in the abstract that screwing up is an important part of learning. I know that talking through it with other people will result in me becoming a better artisan and a more compassionate teacher. I know that. Really I do. And yet, if I'm not 100% certain that I have done a thing absolutely right, it's almost impossible to bring myself to post about it. WHAT IF I'M WRONG AND EVERYTHING I'VE EVER DONE IS WRONG AND EVERYONE HATES ME BECAUSE I MADE A BAD ASSUMPTION?!?!?!?!?! This is what my brainweasels are screaming at me whenever I try to write a blog post about some research that I'm doing.<br />
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<i><b>Problem the Fifth</b></i> - people apparently use my blog posts for stuff. Which, yay, but also holy crap pressure not to get it wrong. And pressure to make everything I write not only right but user-friendly.<br />
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<b><i>Problem the Sixth</i></b> - there's no Ravelry for sewing. Which means there's no purpose-built tool for recording all the details of all the stuff I make. There's no easy way to inventory my stash of fabric and notions and tools. There are no fora of people doing the same things I'm doing, no one-stop-shop of other people who have already done what I'm trying to do. If I want to track down how someone else did a thing, I have to track them down via blogs and word-of-mouth, which leads to:<br />
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<i><b>Problem the Seventh</b></i> - talking to people is scary. Especially people whose work I admire, or people with whom I've never interacted. Or, you know, talking to pretty much anyone other than my family and people like Weaving Friend who are also my family. And this blogging thing? It's basically standing on a table and saying "HI STRANGE PEOPLE LET ME BARE MY SOUL TO YOU AND ALSO PLEASE TELL ME ALL YOUR KNOWLEDGE".<br />
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<i><b>Problem the Eighth</b></i> - balancing all the difference projects. I do all the needlework. And I write fiction. And onomastics research. And archery. And various other research. And I'm a gamer. There isn't time in the day to fit in all the things, and yet when I spend time doing something that isn't an SCA project, I feel guilty for wasting my time.<br />
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<b><i>Problem the Ninth</i></b> - I'm crap therefore why bother? Imposter syndrome at its finest. I don't already magically know everything and therefore none of my work is valid or worthwhile.<br />
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<i><b>Problem the Tenth</b></i> - reading isn't work, apparently. My brainweasels have decided for whatever reason that in order for something to qualify as work or a Real Project, there has to be a tangible output. Reading, even for research, doesn't count. Neither does critical assessment of sources. ONLY MAKING THINGS IS REAL. (I hate my brainweasels rather a lot, in case that wasn't clear.)<br />
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If you've made it to the bottom of this list, well done you!<br />
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I suppose the real question is, how do I deal with all of that up there now that it's out in the open? I don't know. Some of it I can solve by "simply" (LOL) committing to less and being more realistic about my time commitments. The rest of it not so much. If anyone has any tips for sharing one's work while dealing with crippling anxiety and imposter syndrome, feel free to drop me a line. Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-45957023639644820582017-06-22T20:53:00.002+01:002017-06-22T20:53:37.226+01:00A refreshing lunch for 100<span style="font-family: inherit;">Over the weekend I cooked the lunch for Midsummer Coronation. It was an interesting challenge for a few reasons. First, I've never cooked for more than fifty people before. Second, it was a new site with a tiny kitchen. Tiny as in smaller than my apartment's kitchen, which is cozy for two cooks. Third, despite taking place in Ireland, the weather was predicted to be HOT.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Given all of these challenges, I decided to go with a variation of a lunch menu I've cooked several times before. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Shredded roast chicken with cucumber and almond sauce </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Cold aubergine salad with caraway dressing </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lentil soup </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Yoghurt dip</span></span> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Flatbread (purchased)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">I also planned to make allergen-free alternatives as follows:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Shredded chicken - plain chicken without dressing set aside for the nut allergy sufferers.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lentil soup - allium-free single portion for the relevant person.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Flatbread - gluten-free to be made on site.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">With the exception of the soup and the GF flatbread, everything in this meal can be made the day before and refrigerated, since it's all served cold. I suppose technically you could do that with the soup, too, but we didn't have the facilities to chill that much. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">All the recipes are straight from <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Annals-Caliphs-Kitchens-al-Warraqs-Tenth-Century/dp/9004188118/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498161029&sr=8-1&keywords=annals+of+the+caliphs%27+kitchens"><i>Annals of the Caliph's Kitchen</i></a>. (Slight modification with the lentils as per the <a href="http://knittingfiendishly.blogspot.co.uk/2016/11/sneaky-vegan-feast.html">sneaky vegan feast</a>: they tasted so good as soup that I decided to keep them as soup rather than stewing them.) </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Recipes (keep in mind these are scaled for 100!)</span></span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; vertical-align: baseline;">Chicken</span></span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- 12 kg of boneless chicken</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- olive oil and salt for roasting</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- 200g of ground almonds</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- 500ml of white wine vinegar</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- around 2 cups of white sugar </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- 1 and a half largeish cucumbers</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- a scant tablespoon of salt</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- a quarter cup of olive oil</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- 25g fresh mint</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- 25g fresh basil</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- 25g fresh thyme </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Put the chicken into roasting tins, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with salt, and roast until done. Cover and allow to cool until you can handle it without burning yourself. Shred the chicken. Once it has cooled to room temperature, put into covered containers and refrigerate.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">While the chicken is roasting, make the sauce. Finely mince the fresh herbs and the cucumbers. Mix in a large bowl with the almonds and wine vinegar. Add the sugar in quarter cup increments - you're aiming for that perfect puckery balance between sweet and sour. Add olive oil and salt. Mix well. If you're not serving immediately, cover it.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Take the chilled chicken out of the fridge and stir the sauce through it. The easiest way to do this is with your hands, although be warned that if you have any papercuts the vinegar will find them! Serve garnished with sliced cucumber if you fancy it.</span></span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; vertical-align: baseline;">Aubergine</span></span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- 20 aubergines</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- 500ml of white wine vinegar</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- around 2 cups of white sugar</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- 200g of ground almonds</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- 2 generous teaspoons of ground caraway seeds</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- 2 generous teaspoons of ground cinnamon</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- 1 tablespoon galangal (this actually belongs in a different sauce recipe, but it's the same principle and it worked really well) </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Slice the tops off the aubergines. Boil them until a fork pierces the skin with little to no resistance. Drain until cool enough to handle. Chop them up. Mop up the puddles of aubergine juice you've made chopping them. Drain until completely cool. Put into covered containers and refrigerate.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">While the aubergine is boiling, make the dressing. Mix together all the ingredients apart from the sugar. Add the sugar in increments as per the chicken recipe.</span></span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; vertical-align: baseline;">Lentil soup</span></span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- 25l of vegetable stock (approximately)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- 5kg of red lentil</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- 43g of cumin (i.e. one entire jar)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- 6 large heads of garlic </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- 4 dozen vegetable stock cubes if you don't have homemade stock on hand</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- 3 teaspoons of saffron (optional)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Bring the stock to a boil. Mince the garlic. Dump everything into the boiling stock, turn down, and simmer until the lentils dissolve. I made this in three large pots and had a obliging tall person recombine the pots to make sure the seasoning was divided evenly between the containers.</span></span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; vertical-align: baseline;">Yoghurt dip</span></span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- 10 500g pots of plain Greek yoghurt</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- 75g of fresh mint</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">- 3 large cucumbers</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Mince the mint and cucumbers. Tip all the yogurt into an enormous mixing bowl, add the mint and cucumbers. Mix thoroughly. Cover and chill, preferably overnight so the flavours blend nicely.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-size: 11pt; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">I had half a cucumber spare, so I sliced it and served it alongside the rest of the food. The head cook had also brought a couple of industrial sized jars of olives, so we put those out as well. It seemed to be well received, and I think everyone was happy not to have a heavy sit-down meal on a day that hot!</span></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-84745477368958178832017-05-29T21:21:00.001+01:002017-05-29T21:21:23.429+01:00More problems, more fixes (a shift recipe)As I mentioned in an earlier post, there are some minor issues with my underwear. So, I've dealt with that and have made three additional new ones.<br />
<br />
The shifts that are the foundation of this outfit are based on a sort-of extant <a href="http://www.kostym.cz/Anglicky/1_Originaly/01_Goticke/I_01_12.htm">piece from 14th-century Germany</a>. (Sort-of extant in the sense that it was found, photographed, and described before disappearing during the Second World War.) Based on the proportions, it falls to just above the knee. This was what I came up with:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUWZAns3wlk_floGUgLUurfsNhP39Wsdtf2vRNxYPF44QZ81qAi4v9FtFK7BAx59i962e-UsN26WgPZbckHw3czktjsY-IhD5sFX1S52w-kpOQKeyT4P3e-_ZAhwKAdYciwpQfSSL_Bvw/s1600/chemise.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUWZAns3wlk_floGUgLUurfsNhP39Wsdtf2vRNxYPF44QZ81qAi4v9FtFK7BAx59i962e-UsN26WgPZbckHw3czktjsY-IhD5sFX1S52w-kpOQKeyT4P3e-_ZAhwKAdYciwpQfSSL_Bvw/s320/chemise.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yardstick for scale</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
What I had forgotten to take account is that my torso is disproportionately short, so the shoulder straps were too long. The bust support of this garment comes from a belt worn just under the breasts, effectively creating a detached bra band. (Evidence for use of a belt as bust support based on depictions in art of the period, <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrQ-AIS3x-1Qo-N7-bLMcthyphenhyphenmbjvrveV0SFN8xDS6-5rM7xzVxG3cbxz-_Il-qRvZcOPMaN9u0p79St3kY0EjlH6kD2hQFZJ6NbZXb03kcb0DKRJCQeYkUHlsesRHqAKiAOQBmJ5tQ9ZQ/s1600/1376+-+Giusto+de%2527+Menabuoi%252C+Nascita+S.+Giovanni+battista.jpg">for example this</a>, a section of a fresco from Padua.) In order to corral my assets, I've had to shorten the straps.<br />
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(There will be no photos of me in my underwear, I'm afraid. There are limits to what I'm willing to post on the internet!)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifoGT8DIOD-kXQckumSDc-ZThgXazH22JXuloh78rN6sdlBRWfs16OmqF0DoqyfPNIuwrXfviLUIDldsyp1PEWFi6m4zfiCrDJTC7en4a6o-1r57DFXeyeKdJuUySuJW8dLxO0aunPX2o/s1600/shift+diagram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="491" data-original-width="576" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifoGT8DIOD-kXQckumSDc-ZThgXazH22JXuloh78rN6sdlBRWfs16OmqF0DoqyfPNIuwrXfviLUIDldsyp1PEWFi6m4zfiCrDJTC7en4a6o-1r57DFXeyeKdJuUySuJW8dLxO0aunPX2o/s320/shift+diagram.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
<u>Dimensions of pieces (after hemming):</u><br />
<br />
Body panel - top of shoulder to top of kneecap, half of bust<br />
Gores - triangle height from waist to top of kneecap, width two inches narrower than the body panel (This is an arbitrary measurement based on how much linen I had on hand. Feel free to make wider gores if that's what you fancy.)<br />
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The sides are seamed above the gores to the red line. Distance from top of shoulder seam to red line on mine is 9 inches, but you'll to fudge it a bit to figure out what fits your bust. It should be roughly at the line of your bra band.<br />
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The neckline is a simple scoop as in the original piece, and is identical front and back. It should be lower and wider than the neckline of whatever you're going to wear over it so that the white linen doesn't show.<br />
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To make up:<br />
<ol>
<li>Adding a hem allowance, cut two rectangles for the body panels.</li>
<li>Adding a hem allowance, cut two gore rectangles as in the diagram above. </li>
<li>Make gores: </li>
<ol>
<li>Cut gore rectangles and rotate into two isosceles triangles as in the diagram above.</li>
<li>Use running stitch to seam up the centre of the gores.</li>
<li>Press the gore seams open and fell them.</li>
<li>Hem all the way around the gores. </li>
<li>Put the gores somewhere that you won't lose them. <b>Very Important!</b></li>
</ol>
<li> Make body panels:</li>
<ol>
<li>Hem one short edge of each of the body panels.</li>
<li>Stack the body panels together so the hems are facing each other.</li>
<li>Cut out the necklines on both panels at the same time.</li>
<li>Hem the curved edge of both necklines. <b>Make sure you are hemming to the same side as the hems at the bottoms of the panels!</b></li>
<li>Hem the tops of the shoulder straps.</li>
<li>Sew the shoulder straps together.</li>
<li>Pin up and hem along both long sides. (If you do this after the shoulder straps are sewn together, you'll be able to correct it if the straps aren't quite the same width. You can probably guess how I know that.)</li>
</ol>
<li>Assemble the shift:</li>
<ol>
<li>Starting from the bottom edge of the body panel, whipstitch one long side of the first gore to the body panel.</li>
<li>Starting from the top of the side seam (i.e. the red line in the diagram), pin along the side seam and then down along the second long side of the gore. You'll probably need to ease it in a bit, so pin slowly and be prepared to adjust if your fabric is bunching.</li>
<li>Repeat with the second gore.</li>
</ol>
<li>Reinforce the tops of the side seams (optional):</li>
<ol>
<li>Cut a small rectangle of scrap linen. </li>
<li>Fold the edges under.</li>
<li>Lay the patch over the hemmed inside of the top of the side seam so the raw edges are against the hem and the top of the patch is level with the top of the seam. (See diagram below)</li>
<li>Whipstitch all the way around the patch to secure it.</li>
<li>Repeat on the other side seam.</li>
</ol>
</ol>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyP_UUFV-anloJvWTJwLvzUg2wogCN59XTf8SHFDFDsrroEFPdhHUK8XINfQuZJ4nmUJ88RT_KPz9ley0KNixlEoexUCQ5iKRIk7OnwFus0A1womj5k-7D-oeXxEICftVNfj1FUJMG2kk/s1600/patch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="491" data-original-width="576" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyP_UUFV-anloJvWTJwLvzUg2wogCN59XTf8SHFDFDsrroEFPdhHUK8XINfQuZJ4nmUJ88RT_KPz9ley0KNixlEoexUCQ5iKRIk7OnwFus0A1womj5k-7D-oeXxEICftVNfj1FUJMG2kk/s320/patch.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The patch is a technique I've imported from the 16th-century shirts. The top of the side seam is subject to quite a lot of strain, both from regular movement and from the stress put on it by holding in a bosom. The reinforcing patch, while not documented to this period (as far as I know!), is a very easy way to keep from ripping the side seams out.<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-37737369640488318082017-03-09T18:22:00.001+00:002017-03-09T18:22:27.722+00:00Interlude - Good News and Bad NewsTonight I am spending a little time on something that isn't SCA clothing. I know, right? But it is a necessary interlude in my textile activities. <br />
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Bad news first - I managed to catch my new (commercial) pullover in the zip of my jacket and rip a hole in it.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXfAU4IHkBaBdteFaudjCd57flCMXj5xpvZh7vaVXlHAE-BtJUlQkc8sHOv1OSfLOasXA_9Lz3DMV-a7H0WitOT1CJy2VDaH8f5Y59qTIzUwE1whS_lfgkgMlcK5_zhyphenhyphenZEzUku_Wmmdp4/s1600/hole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXfAU4IHkBaBdteFaudjCd57flCMXj5xpvZh7vaVXlHAE-BtJUlQkc8sHOv1OSfLOasXA_9Lz3DMV-a7H0WitOT1CJy2VDaH8f5Y59qTIzUwE1whS_lfgkgMlcK5_zhyphenhyphenZEzUku_Wmmdp4/s320/hole.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two lousy stitches.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Good news - I have something in the stash exactly the right colour to mend it!<br />
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More bad news - it's proto-yarn.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1462WMHP3edFJ78teUc2eyfyb7rOEQM5efUj6xvm5vSiaSsz0hyRQNjxU9B6y-i7N6hwx7cObiIrJ7FRfZlQjX59RrguiirP9zXfSC84JBlGpJoqFxDgzaUmsxiP8mZZGBousNxJBHTE/s1600/proto-yarn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1462WMHP3edFJ78teUc2eyfyb7rOEQM5efUj6xvm5vSiaSsz0hyRQNjxU9B6y-i7N6hwx7cObiIrJ7FRfZlQjX59RrguiirP9zXfSC84JBlGpJoqFxDgzaUmsxiP8mZZGBousNxJBHTE/s320/proto-yarn.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Despite appearances, these two objects are the same colour.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
More good news - I can fix that! I have the technology!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9AU0OjtxKwlXU72G_u7k0SaAOAZ65wRi1FXRPDlKYl8GGOwP7i9EKXgHtNwkUT84rVOnQAqgQjaDgOSEFGAqCvyQEVBYDJ9nqGaI322YjgilpFRaGdQC-HMzuLCr5gnZ0utpQ2MoU7Yc/s1600/technology.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9AU0OjtxKwlXU72G_u7k0SaAOAZ65wRi1FXRPDlKYl8GGOwP7i9EKXgHtNwkUT84rVOnQAqgQjaDgOSEFGAqCvyQEVBYDJ9nqGaI322YjgilpFRaGdQC-HMzuLCr5gnZ0utpQ2MoU7Yc/s320/technology.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ah, my favourite spindle.</td></tr>
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I spun up 50cm of a rather fine 2-ply. Didn't bother wet-finishing it because, well, only about 10cm of that is actually going to become part of the pullover, and it's not going to change dramatically enough to make a difference when I wash it.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5gy_6YR6WlTvEFCyZRDzlalUOCkqlRSEv-8BgQCRjQdqEbJclENXGIMtld1eboXU3hP6fbf4llBGdiGgGPsy80h4-Bn2Zb7NO872pmTodjkQzeDxQr0pYlkezUl-UD5CKRdA6c2JTO7Y/s1600/thread.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5gy_6YR6WlTvEFCyZRDzlalUOCkqlRSEv-8BgQCRjQdqEbJclENXGIMtld1eboXU3hP6fbf4llBGdiGgGPsy80h4-Bn2Zb7NO872pmTodjkQzeDxQr0pYlkezUl-UD5CKRdA6c2JTO7Y/s320/thread.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished but not wet-finished. I'm a slacker.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
A couple of minutes with a darning needle and I'm done!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWbFSZkHe0dp0j6zMWh4-7YpVaX0sE4R-y7dK0TZTLT2AR4FH7kZfRbUIjtNtWOqYDyaKP-iTseiY65CDG_YOY7yIGj-S6_rUF7LCY1dXG40gLbyU_mIxmomxEPSIwYGe41YMGYXby0nU/s1600/close-up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWbFSZkHe0dp0j6zMWh4-7YpVaX0sE4R-y7dK0TZTLT2AR4FH7kZfRbUIjtNtWOqYDyaKP-iTseiY65CDG_YOY7yIGj-S6_rUF7LCY1dXG40gLbyU_mIxmomxEPSIwYGe41YMGYXby0nU/s320/close-up.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Repaired cable is on the left in the middle.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRcc2Mgn0FgI0YjNDSjcRYFuDvxpc_wllW5hA16tiR87h8y_WgTTnj_0SNt3fHj6xGjaXcWFfbFuAo6KK2M8oPjK88EyHMl34GKMO5yOXjgNEHsMdfJGLULnAVzEOIzr7UMppkqR5j5RM/s1600/ends.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRcc2Mgn0FgI0YjNDSjcRYFuDvxpc_wllW5hA16tiR87h8y_WgTTnj_0SNt3fHj6xGjaXcWFfbFuAo6KK2M8oPjK88EyHMl34GKMO5yOXjgNEHsMdfJGLULnAVzEOIzr7UMppkqR5j5RM/s320/ends.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Woven-in ends on the back.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuuMKJszGqCn6No7aw0Fu-domYa-5c_H2YFBK2_sH0ySQJgnmFPoKBE7mH_hIZ6fpemqouLQCfffuXnEsiutuglBB7eM5amKkLz3I6_-54xniAqxtDT6WxdmPRrLYdOR9ip4eCUDxmXZ0/s1600/spot+the+difference.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuuMKJszGqCn6No7aw0Fu-domYa-5c_H2YFBK2_sH0ySQJgnmFPoKBE7mH_hIZ6fpemqouLQCfffuXnEsiutuglBB7eM5amKkLz3I6_-54xniAqxtDT6WxdmPRrLYdOR9ip4eCUDxmXZ0/s320/spot+the+difference.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And from a distance.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-13808938757536592352017-02-26T19:12:00.002+00:002017-02-26T19:12:52.219+00:00Boring but necessaryThe plan for Raglan is to have a fresh set of body linen every other day. That means five shifts, five pairs of hose, and five veils. I needed a veil for the event last weekend, and since I was cutting out the fabric anyway I figured I might as well just do the lot.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiudRIZeBdlaR2pVthf2ZyA9elqCH8FrEuE552y1oNSEmpZE01pzK_2BiJcD1sKesSs5jIpE-IF-evw9ZFNxZPyRE1IPcRrj62TGo5aKP38ngPv1sDQ-4GoEuNSf46IfzlQ4GNJJCOn4QM/s1600/stacked+veils.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiudRIZeBdlaR2pVthf2ZyA9elqCH8FrEuE552y1oNSEmpZE01pzK_2BiJcD1sKesSs5jIpE-IF-evw9ZFNxZPyRE1IPcRrj62TGo5aKP38ngPv1sDQ-4GoEuNSf46IfzlQ4GNJJCOn4QM/s320/stacked+veils.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The veils I've made are 100cm by 30 inches before hemming. Why the weird measurement combo? Well, I wanted metre-long veils, and my fabric was 60 inches wide.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfcFO-efcCadMBONiqwQjhO17FYlzIAziXW4sp2D2N-WFVlxq86Vlqvx4-NAGPGJtdcespe_NhyphenhyphenKXzuImZPQEBJqCv2UH0ClrnDX8Ldc0UxUMkWUOOToRxsTrRtxYC2DyxBfKtLlKLTvM/s1600/veil+layout.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfcFO-efcCadMBONiqwQjhO17FYlzIAziXW4sp2D2N-WFVlxq86Vlqvx4-NAGPGJtdcespe_NhyphenhyphenKXzuImZPQEBJqCv2UH0ClrnDX8Ldc0UxUMkWUOOToRxsTrRtxYC2DyxBfKtLlKLTvM/s320/veil+layout.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
I ended up hemming the selvedges as well because the fabric has annoying frilly selvedges. I also embroidered a little glyph on the corner of each veil to mark them as mine - I've lost too many over the years!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMA-O1L27KnMcIC8e4U4vJXMMo1WB310CwS21KnYlZeLvEGMus_xDuJmp4uDO0rpW2PcgG7VqxhqI-ZwAAb_T5kAcCOIrwuXYxuf-s8d_ygXvJQujVZHZ4iyejQ0WteRCUZnn6g89kW90/s1600/initial.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMA-O1L27KnMcIC8e4U4vJXMMo1WB310CwS21KnYlZeLvEGMus_xDuJmp4uDO0rpW2PcgG7VqxhqI-ZwAAb_T5kAcCOIrwuXYxuf-s8d_ygXvJQujVZHZ4iyejQ0WteRCUZnn6g89kW90/s320/initial.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<br />I also have plans for the sixth block of fabric created when I cut out the veils, but that's another post.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-10281784424433339912017-02-24T19:01:00.000+00:002017-02-24T19:01:37.048+00:00Frock 2.0Having finished fixing the grey frock, it was high time I moved onto the next project for my Raglan basket. The next item on the list was the second frock, this time in black wool. (My wardrobe is pretty boring, colour-wise. I'm ok with that.)<br />
<br />
The tippets are shorter and narrower than those on the grey frock. The sleeves are shorter and tighter. And I used regular gores in the skirt, so there wasn't epic geometry fail this time. It is in all other respects identical to the grey frock.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5vU58Ebk7i4mrAHk3xCGdxA6B_lOauVZ0HgllFchMYWSHXo18Q4T46h2q9eG4eUR3mjoq2nUQJq6mnWU86lHPnrbs1uKq6fbNIhxTXMSsUJgPD0U16WKskQ5BYMqN1YD5GVWyjvFcwAo/s1600/16832074_10101174768368600_8408384179485484998_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5vU58Ebk7i4mrAHk3xCGdxA6B_lOauVZ0HgllFchMYWSHXo18Q4T46h2q9eG4eUR3mjoq2nUQJq6mnWU86lHPnrbs1uKq6fbNIhxTXMSsUJgPD0U16WKskQ5BYMqN1YD5GVWyjvFcwAo/s320/16832074_10101174768368600_8408384179485484998_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photos courtesy of Lady Tamara.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTpKy31HL5mnvYax8_O5xlfaQ6qNm0pxRnl4CB28HT7vM4zp7qm1f5WaoWS1CqQf8PQkxWL3D3Y4zAEpjKpF4hnGdvEhkfA9tFLXF8a7tDAF-EDwb2F9wyIq6B61CY_KlTxH8MkzM3UTM/s1600/16864645_10101174768363610_3181841000105653202_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTpKy31HL5mnvYax8_O5xlfaQ6qNm0pxRnl4CB28HT7vM4zp7qm1f5WaoWS1CqQf8PQkxWL3D3Y4zAEpjKpF4hnGdvEhkfA9tFLXF8a7tDAF-EDwb2F9wyIq6B61CY_KlTxH8MkzM3UTM/s320/16864645_10101174768363610_3181841000105653202_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Now with bonus spiffy champion!</td></tr>
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<br />
I spent an entire weekend in this outfit. It was incredibly helpful to test out how the clothing behaved. Some observations: <br />
<ul>
<li>The entire outfit (overfrock, underfrock, shift, hose, shoes, veil) takes up less than half of my carry-on bag. I could theoretically get the entire wardrobe into a carry-on at some point as long as I didn't need anything else with me. </li>
<li>You can't cook when you're wearing tippets. I had to borrow a tunic in order to go play in the kitchen. </li>
<li>I need to shorten the straps on my shift like whoa. They are too long and consequently uncomfortable. </li>
<li>Ditto the neckline on the underfrock. It's too wide.</li>
<li>Need to practice pinning the veil properly. It needs to fit closer to the back of my neck so that it doesn't look quite so much like a scarf.</li>
<li>The hair works, but makes it surprisingly difficult to hear!</li>
<li>The sleeves on the underfrock are exactly right. I really like the way they fit.</li>
</ul>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-47867458371251679672016-12-27T22:40:00.002+00:002016-12-27T22:48:34.890+00:00First, fix the problemsI've already made most of a complete outfit for my <a href="http://knittingfiendishly.blogspot.co.uk/2016/11/the-next-thing.html">Basket Project</a>, even though I never posted about it. Sorry about that. We'll talk about the foundation garments another day, but there were four major issues with the outer frock. Conveniently, they're all visible in this photo:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbg-S9lTC760nFqeigM-51_Hm56lriu0Xdl5YzE2mQ9wxeL0DHxAqLB79ErDaYfpgje3uqQ8J1CNDLJ0zzx0qNVG9PC5oRMvhNm1MluHjH-uvygLRJM1k6UJWWQuZruhhyphenhyphenjug6YpYzkO0/s1600/frock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbg-S9lTC760nFqeigM-51_Hm56lriu0Xdl5YzE2mQ9wxeL0DHxAqLB79ErDaYfpgje3uqQ8J1CNDLJ0zzx0qNVG9PC5oRMvhNm1MluHjH-uvygLRJM1k6UJWWQuZruhhyphenhyphenjug6YpYzkO0/s320/frock.jpg" width="175" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Courtesy of Lord Richard of Salesburie</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The first is that I had a fairly spectacular geometry failure when I was putting in the gores. I wanted to use up all my fabric and have plenty of swish, so I made three-panel gores instead of two. As gores are right-angle triangles, this meant that I ended up with panels that were different lengths on both sides. That's why the bottom hem has those funky corners.<br />
<br />
Two options here. One, I could piece on more fabric to fill in the gaps. Two, I could trim the bottom edge all the way around to even it up. I decided to trim it, since I had used up every scrap of the fabric when I originally made the frock. End result is a shorter frock, but some of the ladies in the manuscript have shorter overfrocks that reveal the contrast colour underneath.<br />
<br />
Inevitably, this fix led to another problem - the underfrock I'm wearing is pieced. Shortening the overfrock as much as I needed to meant that the join became visible, so I had to take that apart and shorten it, too.<br />
<br />
Second problem is less visible - the neckline. It's supposed to be almost like a boat neck. What I ended up with was more of a scoop.<br />
<br />
It's not a good look. Also, it falls off my shoulders. This is a pretty easy fix - I've just shortened the shoulders to create a neck opening that's a much shallower curve, little more than a slit across the top.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqrMdOvu5Z7RDhFG4m7lMf3UcAtZMiDlO8D0m0uf3XDOhMQMnhx7q7ecGIoa4hkQJlR0LNiIMO_136VTAVQ4EqXNlnfyIx1iYzrcNAOVuu_2Zl7gsCfjHop5hjV_hnIcBDdJDhrJpIK2Q/s1600/neck.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqrMdOvu5Z7RDhFG4m7lMf3UcAtZMiDlO8D0m0uf3XDOhMQMnhx7q7ecGIoa4hkQJlR0LNiIMO_136VTAVQ4EqXNlnfyIx1iYzrcNAOVuu_2Zl7gsCfjHop5hjV_hnIcBDdJDhrJpIK2Q/s320/neck.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Third problem is those sleeves. They are not supposed to be loose and baggy, but very tightly fitted. Also, they're too long. Easily fixed - take them off, cut them to be fractionally larger than the sleeves of the underfrock (which I managed to get just right), rehem, reattach.<br />
<br />
Incidentally, issues like this are one of the best things about the "hem then assemble" school of garment construction. If I'd seamed the sleeves, I would have had to unpick the felling the whole way around the armscye and down the side seam, undo the hem, fix the sleeves, reseam and then fell the whole thing again. This way I just had to snip one stitch and pull out the single thread. Reassembly just means whipping it back into place and shortening the side seam. <br />
<br />
Final problem wasn't so much a construction failure as it was a timetabling failure. All of the frocks in the manuscript that have these short fitted sleeves also have fur-lined tippets. I got as far as sewing the fur onto the backing fabric (largely due to the assistance of my mother!) but never sewed them on. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRrK3QjA6Uhs34C1OgtRHJdq5HQQCIhyphenhyphenCB_hNi9Rmikr6Uj1oJLXl-pKelafD1DOnUfBlTvnI8rXGRVhyglLVvZvKymmu5_KBMUKf7cyIBBE07Me3EqMKEsQRdZX9297uqSLbMIEccsq8/s1600/frock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRrK3QjA6Uhs34C1OgtRHJdq5HQQCIhyphenhyphenCB_hNi9Rmikr6Uj1oJLXl-pKelafD1DOnUfBlTvnI8rXGRVhyglLVvZvKymmu5_KBMUKf7cyIBBE07Me3EqMKEsQRdZX9297uqSLbMIEccsq8/s320/frock.jpg" width="179" /></a><br />
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And the whole fixed outfit, looking rather more respectable!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-4692569935144485522016-11-28T20:54:00.002+00:002018-01-10T20:36:41.468+00:00Sneaky Vegan Feast<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A few months back Boss Laurel was making noises about how difficult it would be to put together a feast for an event that was a) entirely made of dishes/ingredients from pre-1600 recipes<span style="font-family: inherit;">;</span> b) entirely vegan; c) tasty enough <span style="font-family: inherit;">that it would be enjoyed by meat eaters</span>. This inevitably pushed my "challenge accepted" button, which I'm sure will surprise no-one. I spent a few hours poking through my cookbooks and concluded that while it would be difficult, it wouldn't be impossible.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I'd committed to cooking for Yuletide University and ran the idea of a vegan feast past the event steward. She liked the idea and gave me the go-ahead, so I set out to make it happen.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I decided to go with Arabic food embodied in <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Annals-Caliphs-Kitchens-Tenth-century-Civilization/dp/9004158677/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480350654&sr=8-1&keywords=caliph%27s+kitchen">al-Warraq</a> for a few reasons. First, I just really like the food from that cookbook, and whenever I've worked from it before it's been well received. Second, I knew there was an entire chapter on "simulated dishes Christians eat during Lent" (i.e. substitutions for meat). Third, I wanted my guests to have as few expectations about what the meal would be like as possible. European food, particularly early food, tends to be very meat-focal. And medieval recipes aren't really that different to modern ones. I was concerned that if people sat down and ate something from a meat-and-two-veg cuisine, they'd be emotionally dissatisfied even if it was tasty and nutritionally complete. Arabic food is exotic enough that most of my guests wouldn't have an instinct of what it 'should' look and taste like.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">At this point I sat down with al-Warraq and started marking things that sounded good. There's a lot in al-Warraq that sounds good, just as an aside.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT0jxytkBpaQD953qUUO4_SpcbTMGeMwhWnOG_2Cb7_vaeSAnY6Q6YvrQvpHvt2qUpFQY79-11S1G42BEgH8CkofZEFsr3mrJcsev52yU2-W9Go0-1eNH4H-hYTwhXhfObpcgSf0_yedI/s1600/14964296_10101073978352600_1219081652_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT0jxytkBpaQD953qUUO4_SpcbTMGeMwhWnOG_2Cb7_vaeSAnY6Q6YvrQvpHvt2qUpFQY79-11S1G42BEgH8CkofZEFsr3mrJcsev52yU2-W9Go0-1eNH4H-hYTwhXhfObpcgSf0_yedI/s320/14964296_10101073978352600_1219081652_o.jpg" width="180" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Once I'd put together a longlist, I started pulling together a rough outline of the feast. I knew I wanted to start with an assortment of nibbly things on the tables per the chapter on "seasonal fruits and fruits served before the meal". I knew I needed a LOT of flatbread. I knew I wanted a couple of vegetable dishes, a couple of protein dishes, a sweet dish, and a centrepiece dish. I also wanted a good mix of textures and colours, as well as things served both hot and cold. My goal was to select dishes that would counter the stereotype that all vegan food is bland, boring, and full of lentils!</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">One of the recipes I initially passed over was a recipe for fried truffles. And then I came back to it. You see, normally two-thirds to three-quarters of a feast budget is taken up by animal products - meat, milk, eggs, cheese, butter, honey. Once you take out all of those ingredients, you have a LOT more money to play with. I decided to build this feast around a centrepiece of truffles, because how could I not?! </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">After a lot of feedback from an assortment of awesome people and a bunch of testing, the menu I ended up with was this:</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<br />
<ul id="docs-internal-guid-361b892b-ac6e-cdd0-26fe-6177d9c00dbf" style="margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<li dir="ltr" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; list-style-type: disc; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Dried apricots and figs</span></span></span></span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<ul id="docs-internal-guid-361b892b-ac6e-cdd0-26fe-6177d9c00dbf" style="margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<li dir="ltr" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; list-style-type: disc; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Fresh green grapes</span></span></span></span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<ul id="docs-internal-guid-361b892b-ac6e-cdd0-26fe-6177d9c00dbf" style="margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<li dir="ltr" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; list-style-type: disc; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Olives</span></span></span></span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<ul id="docs-internal-guid-361b892b-ac6e-cdd0-26fe-6177d9c00dbf" style="margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<li dir="ltr" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; list-style-type: disc; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Toasted walnuts</span></span></span></span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<ul id="docs-internal-guid-361b892b-ac6e-cdd0-26fe-6177d9c00dbf" style="margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<li dir="ltr" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; list-style-type: disc; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Flatbread</span></span></span></span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<ul id="docs-internal-guid-361b892b-ac6e-cdd0-26fe-6177d9c00dbf" style="margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<li dir="ltr" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; list-style-type: disc; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Tahini</span></span></span></span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<ul id="docs-internal-guid-361b892b-ac6e-cdd0-26fe-6177d9c00dbf" style="margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<li dir="ltr" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; list-style-type: disc; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Cold aubergine salad dressed in sauce</span></span></span></span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<ul id="docs-internal-guid-361b892b-ac6e-cdd0-26fe-6177d9c00dbf" style="margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<li dir="ltr" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; list-style-type: disc; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Hot boiled cabbage dressed in [a different] sauce</span></span></span></span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<ul id="docs-internal-guid-361b892b-ac6e-cdd0-26fe-6177d9c00dbf" style="margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<li dir="ltr" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; list-style-type: disc; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Dish of white beans with mustard</span></span></span></span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<ul id="docs-internal-guid-361b892b-ac6e-cdd0-26fe-6177d9c00dbf" style="margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<li dir="ltr" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; list-style-type: disc; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lentil stew</span></span></span></span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<ul id="docs-internal-guid-361b892b-ac6e-cdd0-26fe-6177d9c00dbf" style="margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<li dir="ltr" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; list-style-type: disc; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lenten “omelets” made of chickpeas</span></span></span></span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<ul id="docs-internal-guid-361b892b-ac6e-cdd0-26fe-6177d9c00dbf" style="margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<li dir="ltr" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; list-style-type: disc; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Coconut milk rice pudding</span></span></span></span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<ul id="docs-internal-guid-361b892b-ac6e-cdd0-26fe-6177d9c00dbf" style="margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<li dir="ltr" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; list-style-type: disc; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Fried truffles with fried onions</span></span></span></span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<ul id="docs-internal-guid-361b892b-ac6e-cdd0-26fe-6177d9c00dbf" style="margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<li dir="ltr" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; list-style-type: disc; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Fried mushrooms with fried onions</span></span></span></span></div>
</li>
</ul>
<ul id="docs-internal-guid-361b892b-ac6e-cdd0-26fe-6177d9c00dbf" style="margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<li dir="ltr" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; list-style-type: disc; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Spiced apple conserves</span></span></span></span></div>
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</ul>
<ul id="docs-internal-guid-361b892b-ac6e-cdd0-26fe-6177d9c00dbf" style="margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<li dir="ltr" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; list-style-type: disc; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Sliced fresh radishes</span></span></span></span></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">There were two other dishes that didn't make the final cut. One, walnut crepes, I ditched for being too fiddly. The other, a simulated shrimp paste made from lentils, was so nasty that neither Spouse nor I could eat it. No way was I serving that!</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span></span></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Redactions with commentary next. This section is pretty long, so if you just want the reactions and reflections, scroll down to the bottom. </span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span></span></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Rather than serving distinct courses, I sent out dishes in a fairly constant stream. This was deliberate - I didn't want the disruption of the break between courses to remind people of what wasn't there. The redactions are just my working outlines, as sent to the kitchen crew. Page numbers in brackets for the original recipes in the edition linked above.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-361b892b-ac86-7058-90fa-6dba72bf3309" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Dried fruit and grapes and walnuts are on the table to start the meal, as are bowls of tahini and hummus. <i>I also had olives and bowls of salt on the table. The olives were a bonus - the event steward had a partial jar of them she wanted to use up. The salt should really have been flavoured with spices, but all of the recipes called for asafoetida, which I'm unfortunately allergic to.</i></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Flatbreads go out on platters throughout as needed.<i> No change here. I used bought naan bread because making flatbread generates smoke, and the site's smoke detectors are stupidly sensitive.</i></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Sliced radishes go out at the end of the meal as a palate cleanser. Store in water in the fridge until served. <i>Could have skipped these. People were too full to want them!</i></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Truffles - fry in their own oil with a little salt, coriander, cumin, and black pepper. Serve on a bed of onions fried in the same oil with some crushed almonds. (p. 343) <i>I had a moment of idiocy while cooking the lentils and mushrooms, so the truffles just got done with black pepper. As strong as they are, it's not like they needed the extra flavour!</i></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Mushrooms - exactly as with the truffles, but use sesame and olive oil for half the batch (in case people don’t like truffle oil.) <i>No cumin in the mushrooms because I accidentally put all of it in the lentils. Oops. I decided to do mushrooms because I couldn't afford enough truffles to be a dish in their own right. They were a tasting dish. The mushrooms compensated for that and also allowed people who weren't into truffles to have some of the luxury dish.</i></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Apple conserves - peel, core, and chop. Bring a large pot of water to the boil with white sugar and a small amount of vinegar. Add the apples. Turn down the heat and cook gently until the apples soften into mush. Throw in the pot of mixed spices Constanza is bringing over. Throw in saffron just before serving. (p. 486) <i>The spices in question were cinnamon, black pepper, cloves, cardamom, mace, and nutmeg. There should have been spikenard, too, but it's impossible to find. I also forgot to put the saffron in, so ended up using it in the lentils.</i></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">White beans - boil tinned cannellini beans for 25 minutes. Drain and coarsely mash. Add vinegar, salt, olive oil, and fresh mustard (see recipe). (p. 295) <i>Doesn't sound like much, but this dish is SO GOOD. It's really strongly flavoured and tastes great with flatbread. Heated the beans in the oven because there wasn't room on the top of the cooker.</i></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Mustard - combine equal parts ground mustard seeds and ground walnuts. Moisten with vinegar until it has the consistency of mustard sauce. Add a little salt. (p. 196) <i>Strictly speaking, after mixing the ingredients one ought to sieve them. The resulting liquid is the mustard and the solids get mixed with other ingredients to make another sauce. However, as I didn't need any of the other sauce, I just left the liquid and solid mixed together.</i></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Lentil stew - wash and pick over red lentils. Cook lentils with chopped garlic and cumin in vegetable stock until the lentils become soft. (p. 293) <i>One kilo of red lentils (which bizarrely turn green when you stew them), about a tablespoon of cumin, three heads (yes really) of garlic, 7 vegetable stock cubes, and a teaspoon of saffron threads. Although this was supposed to be a thicker dish, one of the kitchen crew got a little carried away adding water to the pan. It turned into a creamy thin soup, almost like a puree. Mad props to the kitchen team who convinced me that the consistency was a feature, not a bug.</i></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Rice pudding - wash rice and soak overnight in enough coconut milk to cover. The next day, bring to boil enough water to scantily cover the rice (but don’t put the rice in yet!). Once it has boiled, add the rice and the coconut milk, along with some sesame oil and white sugar. If it dries out before the rice is properly cooked, add a little more coconut milk. It should be sticky, not runny - all the liquid should absorb into the rice. (p. 262) <i>Due to a logistics problem, we didn't have enough saucepans and had to do this in the oven. Turned out really tasty, though. The coconut milk is a substitute for regular milk as described in the chapter on simulated dishes.</i></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Chickpea omelets - boil tinned chickpeas until they get soft enough to mash. (Or cheat and use the wet grinder.) Add some minced boiled onion to the chickpea mash, along with a small amount of olive oil, ground almonds and walnuts, black pepper, and some xanthan gum. Pour the mixture into a frying pan and cook it in a little olive oil until it’s done and resembles a real omelet. (p. 236) <i>Forgot to add the onions. These bore no resemblance whatsoever to actual omelets, but they were incredibly tasty. Used xanthan gum because I couldn't find any food grade gum arabic in time. The addition of ground nuts to the mixture was based on the recipes for egg-based omelets on p. 326.</i></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Aubergines - boil, drain thoroughly, chill. Chop just before serving and dress with sauce of vinegar, caraway, cinnamon, galangal, mint, parsley, salt to taste. Add oil to dressing just before serving. (Both the aubergine and cabbage recipes are taken from the chapter on cold bawarid.) <i>If you describe cold boiled aubergine as a salad, people will generally have a go at it. Which is good, because it's incredibly tasty.</i></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Cabbage - Chop, boil. Dress with sauce of vinegar, white sugar, ground almonds, caraway, cinnamon. <i>Also very tasty. Strictly speaking the cabbage should have been chilled, but I decided that one chilled boiled vegetable was probably pushing my luck, let alone two.</i></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I was pleasantly surprised at how well the feast was received. I hadn't announced the vegan nature of the food in advance, and I'm told that some of the guests didn't actually realize it was vegan until it was pointed out to them. One person said, "I've just eaten a vegan feast and I'm not angry about it. Good work." Which is a pretty nice compliment, actually!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The lentil soup was the surprise star of the show. The serving dish came back so clean we could probably have gotten away without washing it, and the only criticism I heard was that there wasn't more of it.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I got the impression people were intrigued by the truffles, although they definitely weren't to everyone's taste. Still, the very scanty leftovers were snapped up the next day.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The rice pudding was meant to have gone out in the middle of the feast, but because it had to be done in the oven ended up going out last, accompanied by the apple conserves. Consequently, we had more rice left over than I had expected - everyone was too full to eat much of it!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">If I'd known how well the meal was going to be received, I'd probably have skipped the rice pudding and apple conserves. Instead, I'd have rounded off with some of the chewy candies elsewhere in the book and possibly coffee. It would have made the whole thing more nicely balanced. That said, I was counting on the rice pudding to be something inoffensive and tasty for anyone who was too put off by the weirder stuff.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Overall? I'd say it was a complete success. I'd have liked to have spent more time practising the recipes beforehand, and at some point I want to return to the omelets. I have a plan to make some of al-Warraq's egg omelets so that I can see what I'm aiming for, consistency-wise. Once I've got that figured out I can start playing around with different quantities of liquid and gum.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>Addendum - would you believe there was milk powder in the <span style="font-family: inherit;">wretched <span style="font-family: inherit;">naan bread I bought? Should have just dealt with the smoke de<span style="font-family: inherit;">tectors and made my own from<span style="font-family: inherit;"> al-Warraq's recipe. Bah.</span></span></span></span></i> </span></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-21308874816534041472016-11-14T16:52:00.000+00:002016-11-14T16:52:00.976+00:00The next thingThere's always a "next thing". In this case, it's a mostly-needlework project that I'm hoping will be completed by the end of next July in time for our major SCA camping trip.<br />
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Among attendees there's a tendency to have more and more stuff every year. There are some who have so much in the way of equipment and furniture that they have to hire a van to get it all there. That's absolutely fine if you can manage it, and if I'm perfectly honest I'd love to do that myself. For lots of reasons (starting with no driving license and ending with very little storage space) I can't, however. So, this year, instead of wrestling with the limits of a small flat and public transport, I've decided to embrace it and have a completely different Raglan experience.<br />
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Instead of channelling my inner noblewoman, with her baggage train, servants, and travelling bed, I'm going to try channelling someone from a lower walk of life - a merchant. I could still travel, but instead of bringing my accomodation with me I'd be relying on inns. And as for baggage, I'd be limited to what I could carry myself (or get a packhorse). That being the case:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfm3ItubZDUNTdfejkigb17odv_V5M-dFCHI_SM4LKaHfElltWbwGjoHtpPF4G03FxjMzoQyaLS5TIIS-IEC_cKV_oBXuZVS2oCvV62Yox4_PI3yERYzEJL0bcLpwg9SmcqX9wIJT5b5o/s1600/basket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfm3ItubZDUNTdfejkigb17odv_V5M-dFCHI_SM4LKaHfElltWbwGjoHtpPF4G03FxjMzoQyaLS5TIIS-IEC_cKV_oBXuZVS2oCvV62Yox4_PI3yERYzEJL0bcLpwg9SmcqX9wIJT5b5o/s320/basket.jpg" width="223" /></a></div>
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I did a little shopping at the re-enactors' market this weekend!<br />
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My new basket looks smaller than it actually is - it's the full length of my torso and a bit larger around. The plan is to take only the personal equipment that I can carry in the basket or wear on my body. Well, that plus my longbow, of course. I'll also have the tent and camping bed I share with my spouse serving as a substitute inn.<br />
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As for the specifics of what goes in the basket... Well, that's where the needlework comes in. Most of the clothing I own is rather bulky, or comes from a time and/or place where I can't prove the use of such baskets for transporting goods. That being the case I'm planning to put together a new wardrobe, because why wouldn't I?!<br />
<br />
I'm working entirely from <a href="http://image.ox.ac.uk/show?collection=bodleian&manuscript=msbodl264">Bodleian Library MS. Bodl. 264</a>, which is an illuminated version of the Romance of Alexander originating in France from between 1338 and 1344. It contains a vast number of illustrations, and is rather unusual because it shows both lower class people (in the marginal decorations) and the nobility (in the body of the text), giving a much better idea of how clothing changed at that time and place according to rank.<br />
<br />
The plan is to have around 5 linen shifts, three or four linen underdresses, and two or three wool overdresses. Additionally, I'll need veils, hose, a belt, shoes, and things like a bowl and an eating knife. Collectively it shouldn't take up more than a third of the basket, which will leave space for extra things like my quiver and arrows.<br />
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-7927613811127929012016-11-07T10:44:00.002+00:002016-11-07T10:44:46.672+00:00Constanza's chocolate science, as served at Raglan Fair XII<i>This article previously appeared in the September issue of the Baelfyr.</i> <br />
<br />
In the lead-up to Raglan Fair, I took part in an online course called A
History of Royal Food and Feasting, put together by the University of
Reading and the Historic Royal Palaces. One of the sections was on
drinking chocolate, primarily during the reign of George I, but also
included earlier history of this luxury food.<br /><br />A major component
of the course was practical work making the foods (and drinks!)
discussed. One of the ones that particularly interested me was a recipe
for chocolate wine by John Nott from his Cook’s Dictionary of 1726. This
recipe was described as indicative of chocolate wine recipes. I didn't
have time to make it before I left (and foolishly forgot to write down
the recipe), so my version was an approximation. Still, it tasted good,
and the proportions were nearly right! <br /><br />Original recipe:<br />Take
a pint of sherry, or a pint and a half of red port, four ounces and a
half of chocolate, six ounces of fine sugar, and half an ounce <br />of
white starch, or fine flour; mix, dissolve, and boil all these as
before. But, if your chocolate be with sugar, take double the quantity
of chocolate, and half the quantity of sugar; and so in all.<br />
<div id="yiv0760095094yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1472159250532_5632">
<br /></div>
<div id="yiv0760095094yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1472159250532_5633">
My attempt (For Science!)</div>
<div id="yiv0760095094yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1472159250532_5634">
<br /></div>
<div id="yiv0760095094yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1472159250532_5635">
Ingredients:</div>
<div dir="ltr" id="yiv0760095094yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1472159250532_5650">
4
100g bars of 85% cocoa solids plain chocolate (Course notes stated that
it was important to use chocolate of at least 80% cocoa solids. Mine
came from Tesco; Hotel Chocolat sell 100% bars.)</div>
<div dir="ltr" id="yiv0760095094yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1472159250532_5686">
1 bottle of decent port</div>
<div dir="ltr" id="yiv0760095094yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1472159250532_5698">
4 tablespoons of white sugar (approximately - I poured it in and tasted it until it stopped being so bitter I couldn't drink it)</div>
<div dir="ltr" id="yiv0760095094yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1472159250532_5727">
Pinch of cinnamon</div>
<div dir="ltr" id="yiv0760095094yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1472159250532_5728">
Pinch of ginger (I honestly don't know where I got the idea that there were meant to be spices in it, but put them in I did.)</div>
<div id="yiv0760095094yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1472159250532_5651">
<br /></div>
Dissolve
the chocolate over a low heat, stirring with a whisk. You could use a
bain marie, but it worked perfectly well in a saucepan over a gas ring.
Once the chocolate is completely dissolved, slowly add the port,
stirring constantly. Keep stirring until the chocolate and port have
combined smoothly. Add the sugar and spices. Pour into a jug and serve
hot.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-81694285596971268182016-10-09T23:01:00.001+01:002016-10-09T23:01:48.270+01:00OverdueBack when Boss Laurel and I set up this apprenticeship malarkey, there were terms and conditions. One of the things I had to do was make myself an apprentice belt. (Context for the non-SCA readers - there's a tradition within the Society that apprentices wear belts, usually green, to mark their status. Frequently the belt is a gift from the Laurel to the apprentice, but not always.)<br />
<br />
The belt didn't have to be green, in my case, but I had to make it myself. And when I say "make it myself", I mean I had to do all the steps the craftsperson would have done in the Middle Ages. So, had I made a leather belt, I could have bought a metal buckle, but I'd probably have had to tan my own leather.<br />
<br />
The mission was further complicated by two things. One - I don't like wearing belts. Two - I already have two green apprentice belts, both of which were gifts from dear friends and are what I wear all the time. So whatever I made needed to be not at all belt-like and also not duplicate the function of either of the others I already own.<br />
<br />
I put the whole thing on the back burner, mostly to give myself time to mull it over and figure out what I'd actually wear. Then the 16th century happened and I basically made myself a new court outfit in the style of the English 1540s. What I never did get around to making for it was a jewelled girdle, because jewelry-making is WAY outside my comfort zone. Also, it's expensive, and it's hard to find table-cut gemstones.<br />
<br />
Then I came across this portrait and found another option:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo24Fe1ZK2dC2juR9_QHDoIbxP_gODJyiIXyZsU97KNfDGBjXuTX6zhQ-44Gv7lHfklMHzMwCvTKn_3CJ9AYQrZMuUXTXkvX41TWQpYzKcLG1vxeFTqypOzxdEWjM9gmYf-laabv8D4xs/s1600/British-School-16th-century-The-Family-of-Henry-VIII-c.1545-RCIN-405796-%25C2%25A9-Royal-Collection-Trust.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo24Fe1ZK2dC2juR9_QHDoIbxP_gODJyiIXyZsU97KNfDGBjXuTX6zhQ-44Gv7lHfklMHzMwCvTKn_3CJ9AYQrZMuUXTXkvX41TWQpYzKcLG1vxeFTqypOzxdEWjM9gmYf-laabv8D4xs/s320/British-School-16th-century-The-Family-of-Henry-VIII-c.1545-RCIN-405796-%25C2%25A9-Royal-Collection-Trust.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Copyright <a href="https://www.royalcollection.org.uk/collection/search#/5/collection/405796/the-family-of-henry-viii">the Royal Collection</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Specifically, this bit of it:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8NmVFwpUU6wa5NLVj9tJkeeU7DjhPrEJHmoIQj6Ecc05qIXcMqnWvL3eQlMBNvt90X0USxZzcmoe0k9Ms6rvpgyowIIfUprsq8iDVo2bsgdBM_zvc9OSr_Dn5dAGbjzCZF7FjYhiSbuc/s1600/close+up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8NmVFwpUU6wa5NLVj9tJkeeU7DjhPrEJHmoIQj6Ecc05qIXcMqnWvL3eQlMBNvt90X0USxZzcmoe0k9Ms6rvpgyowIIfUprsq8iDVo2bsgdBM_zvc9OSr_Dn5dAGbjzCZF7FjYhiSbuc/s320/close+up.jpg" width="174" /></a></div>
Looking at it closely, it's essentially a string of pearls with a chain and medallion hanging off the front. Even I can manage that!<br />
<br />
I set off to my favourite <strike>crack dealer</strike> needlework supply shop and came home with an assortment of artificial pearls, gold beads, and gold chain. I had considered threading all of it on silk, but I want this to be sturdy enough to survive more than one event, so I decided to buy tiger tail. The nylon component is modern, but jewelry on wire is accurate.<br />
<br />
Once I got home, I spent <i>mumble-mumble </i>hours with a bead reamer smoothing the insides of the beads. Again, this is for long-term survival of the girdle - any sharp edges run the risk of wearing through the wire.<br />
<br />
There's no clasp visible in the painting, but it has to fasten somehow. I've used a hook and eye and put them at the front of the pearl strand - it'll be easier to put the girdle on, and it means I can use the hook to attach the chain and pendant.<br />
<br />
I've used the gold beads to space out the pearls because the shop didn't have enough pearls in the right size to fit my waist.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9r1GeJ4UDSNPcNFUd-MMGsyCgAuWzMsZUAPHYc10ONYGIJiYgnzI0U6McfM9EC7H0bmHMivWSuCblZwI-aLXYocXPoY0fRlQnA_3NAGsxhBMq_Lo7J84hK3PutPWbflw4HQB3Z9oQbL4/s1600/pearls.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9r1GeJ4UDSNPcNFUd-MMGsyCgAuWzMsZUAPHYc10ONYGIJiYgnzI0U6McfM9EC7H0bmHMivWSuCblZwI-aLXYocXPoY0fRlQnA_3NAGsxhBMq_Lo7J84hK3PutPWbflw4HQB3Z9oQbL4/s320/pearls.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<br />
The pendant is a silver and garnet Christmas decoration my mother bought me in Istanbul years ago. It needs a good polish, but it's pretty and does a good impression of the pomander pendants on many of the girdles shown in portraits. <br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBa6tb9MTGY2PTcPCvMl14q52rJSmT1XFsihPthtCSDyqDIpQNPT7L4-g28Q6Zmo0NREKQFzjnqfA9Pp79o8B1QrG4mykw4Xr2lnkeOBixAJ5GA5301gjZjq_y92UmmUtTH8M9pAo6C9o/s1600/pendant.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBa6tb9MTGY2PTcPCvMl14q52rJSmT1XFsihPthtCSDyqDIpQNPT7L4-g28Q6Zmo0NREKQFzjnqfA9Pp79o8B1QrG4mykw4Xr2lnkeOBixAJ5GA5301gjZjq_y92UmmUtTH8M9pAo6C9o/s320/pendant.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
And finally, the finished girdle.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdQ8iPKljrcnv7CrAHffzxcj5pkclmsQvgI1xFVNppGbTPxbMKHq9wgRKda2Jw5ClGpLgVb7atMoJMAKP69s-AFz87QaqYorEbOpBCaHcaOkoe_i2aPiYSfLdPEucNOdW5H9ijsrVrgd0/s1600/girdle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdQ8iPKljrcnv7CrAHffzxcj5pkclmsQvgI1xFVNppGbTPxbMKHq9wgRKda2Jw5ClGpLgVb7atMoJMAKP69s-AFz87QaqYorEbOpBCaHcaOkoe_i2aPiYSfLdPEucNOdW5H9ijsrVrgd0/s320/girdle.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<br />
Photos with the full outfit next month - it takes nearly an hour to get into it, and I need assistance from someone better with hoopskirts than my spouse!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-55686451309298458442016-10-01T22:29:00.001+01:002016-10-01T22:29:10.396+01:00Exhibition review - Opus Anglicanum at the V&AYesterday evening I went to the members' preview of the new <a href="http://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/opus-anglicanum-masterpieces-of-english-medieval-embroidery">Opus Anglicanum exhibition at the V&A</a>, courtesy of my lovely colleague. It was, in a word, amazing. No photos allowed, sadly, so this will have to be words only. <br />
<br />
The exhibition itself fills about five rooms of the museum's flexible exhibition space. It comprises 83 objects, mostly embroideries, but also a nice range of stained glass, needlework tools, tiles, and brass rubbings (among other things!). The objects are nicely spaced out, so there's plenty of room to look around. Also, many of the cases are glass on both sides so you can see all the way around the objects. The signage and labelling is also really good, plenty of information about the thread AND the ground fabric, including notes about the weave structure. There was one button I wanted to know more about, but that was the only problem.<br />
<br />
The embroideries themselves are mostly ecclesiastical, but there are also pieces from court inventories as well as fragments too small to identify. They span about 350 years, with most of the collection dating from the 13th and 14th centuries. In addition to the more usual gold-and-silk on linen, there are also examples of some more unusual things, including a seal bag that is the only known extant piece of medieval English wool inlaid work (on loan from Westminster Abbey, no webpage available), and a <a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O93124/the-clare-chasuble-chasuble-unknown/">chasuble </a>which is the earliest known example of kanzi fabric in England. (Kanzi is an Iranian blend with a silk warp and cotton weft.) The objects on display are from a number of collections outside the V&A, including the British Library and the National Museum of Iceland, among others.<br />
<br />
The lighting is low for preservation purposes, and as mentioned above there was no photography permitted. Plan to bring a sketchbook if you're not going to get the catalogue.<br />
<br />
Speaking of the catalogue, it's 310 pages of hardcover, full-colour yumminess, well worth the £35 price tag. It weighs nearly 2kg, but it was definitely worth hauling home. In addition to the full catalogue, there are also eight essays detailing the context of Opus Anglicanum, its methods of work, the materials used, and the relationship between the English embroidery industry and the rest of Europe. There's a full glossary and an extensive bibliography. Additionally, each catalogue entry has its own set of citations where the object has previously been studied.<br />
<br />
In summary, I'll paraphrase my excited Facebook post from last night:<br />
<br />
<i>If you are interested in historic embroidery. If you are interested in
historic textiles generally. If you are interested in any sort of
embroidery. If you are interested in heraldic display. If you are
interested in 13th-century trade networks. If you are interested in
ceremonial clothing. If you are interested in the relationship between
medieval embroidery design and its contemporary artwo</i><span class="text_exposed_show"><i>rks. GO.</i></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-40319263880058684742016-09-05T18:10:00.001+01:002016-09-05T18:11:05.642+01:00In which I muse on curtains and growing upI grew up in a home filled with handmade textiles. My mother made most of the soft furnishings, everything from blankets to tablecloths to embroidered guest hand towels. And that doesn't even cover the decorative things like tapestry cushions and Christmas tree ornaments. It was (and is) cozy in my mother's home, soft and warm and welcoming.<br />
<br />
Inevitably, I started to do the same with my own home when I moved out. It's a very different style, to be sure, but I have handmade blankets on the bed and crocheted cushions on the sofa, along with lace snowflakes on the Christmas tree and samplers on the wall. "It's what grown-ups do," says the little voice in the back of my head.<br />
<br />
The one thing I had never done was make my own curtains. That's Mom's thing. Actual curtains to keep in the warmth at night and sheers for privacy's sake during the day. I had never needed them, but the Spouse and I recently moved into a ground-floor flat that faces the road. It was a choice between making sheers or never opening the blinds.<br />
<br />
Mom came through with a set of surplus sheers from her previous house that didn't fit her new windows, along with the leftover fabric in case I needed to make more. Good thing, too: the picture window in our bedroom took two curtains, so we were one short.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZR-Fjop2ltKCyKSTmqCavKCmGE9WXuJUOOJWFCLkFLD6sFk_mxSb2rVRVm8-a8Id9Lw32En53I5P7I2v2URQ112UxwSVBDECAYuNHJfZqfwiyqgMpWVC6ztOaujamkiK36VhWeaEnp7I/s1600/bedroom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZR-Fjop2ltKCyKSTmqCavKCmGE9WXuJUOOJWFCLkFLD6sFk_mxSb2rVRVm8-a8Id9Lw32En53I5P7I2v2URQ112UxwSVBDECAYuNHJfZqfwiyqgMpWVC6ztOaujamkiK36VhWeaEnp7I/s320/bedroom.jpg" width="320" /></a>I had planned to leave the existing curtains as they were, but they were longer than the window openings and were driving me potty. So I spent the afternoon hemming the existing four and making one all by myself.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDe8bcvVj_9J_rWovEXkY85cxupEiQvGKs2pCtN_0aTzCNevQmCejchaBPRkI0XgsOhISXc12CFat7CShcIJoWkqSmXh62lE_l8oJK-msiudY5hcwGbKma5ZfaSR_2tLdBl4XUJFpRh9M/s1600/study.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDe8bcvVj_9J_rWovEXkY85cxupEiQvGKs2pCtN_0aTzCNevQmCejchaBPRkI0XgsOhISXc12CFat7CShcIJoWkqSmXh62lE_l8oJK-msiudY5hcwGbKma5ZfaSR_2tLdBl4XUJFpRh9M/s320/study.jpg" width="180" /></a>It's such a strange thing, really, but I had been terribly intimidated at the thought of making my own curtains. I don't know why - it's not like I've never hemmed interminable rectangles of fabric before. But somehow this was a much bigger deal than making garb or knitting socks. Maybe it was because Mom hasn't made any curtains since I left home, at least not that I've watched her make. All my memories of the process are from before I really started sewing properly.<br />
<br />
I feel like I've levelled up or gotten bonus adulting points or something. Clearly it's time to have ice cream for supper.<br />
<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-9605971961616632332016-08-16T18:10:00.002+01:002016-08-16T18:10:59.449+01:00I don't even have a real excuse.Life has been busy. Crazy busy. Running a ten-day SCA event for 150+ people on the other side of the country busy. I've been making stuff, but haven't really been up to posting much.<br />
<br />
However, all this is behind me! The event is over! No-one died and the castle is still standing! I can make stuff again!<br />
<br />
Things I am currently working on:<br />
<br />
Yet another 16th-century shirt. This was one I bartered for some fencing armour and it's long overdue. Collar and cuffs embroidered, plain everything else.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil0YQScoihzVWcm6WADPbaKooPt-fZxygd73RGv2hhzhJQPS_FHUteW9WfDbfA6wQvQK0rF8N3lIeCn2pjqT0KTOIwKm3rivMhBp416Sa_kj47IonHSlZoL5n9xZau6V5pYmnP1PnQ2fc/s1600/13770437_10100957952469400_3353480829309092603_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil0YQScoihzVWcm6WADPbaKooPt-fZxygd73RGv2hhzhJQPS_FHUteW9WfDbfA6wQvQK0rF8N3lIeCn2pjqT0KTOIwKm3rivMhBp416Sa_kj47IonHSlZoL5n9xZau6V5pYmnP1PnQ2fc/s320/13770437_10100957952469400_3353480829309092603_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
A complete maintenance overhaul of all our garb and other bits. This is ongoing, but I've gotten a lot done, including darning some hose, reinforcing a bunch of seams, attaching trim, and regluing the soles of shoes. Most of what's left is finishing inside seams, but I have a pair of sleeves that need to be finished, too.<br />
<br />
A crocheted Thing. Might be a shawl. Might be a blanket. I have no idea how big it's going to be when all the yarn has been used up, but it's mindless and good for my commute. (Oh yeah, I have a train commute now. We moved back in January.)<br />
<br />
There are some major repairs pending on Spouse's wool coat after it got trapped in the suitcase wheels and dragged along the pavement earlier this year. Fortunately Mother Mine had leftovers of the fabric...<br />
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-9938543627248466412015-09-19T18:15:00.002+01:002015-09-19T18:15:53.071+01:00Whoosh!That was the sound of July, August, and most of September whizzing past me. Sorry about that. Things have been pretty hectic in Fiendishland. Raglan happened at the beginning of August. It was fabulous and stressful - fabulous for seeing people and doing things, stressful because I was helping to run it and we had a food co-op this year. Anyway.<br />
<br />
New Frock 1.0 was successfully finished, and I am rather happy with it.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg45l15Br49j54cZuyCdF53SBUzjc-8w89QoIw3_o8xLz6XdplKzkDfKCInsfTCQFvYyINSgBFx3cT-mtkjio_XF0BWhxGYzWIF6isrKcrTQxJFyhpf7R2LvJBls12sBs4VDAACwm9R3pk/s1600/frock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg45l15Br49j54cZuyCdF53SBUzjc-8w89QoIw3_o8xLz6XdplKzkDfKCInsfTCQFvYyINSgBFx3cT-mtkjio_XF0BWhxGYzWIF6isrKcrTQxJFyhpf7R2LvJBls12sBs4VDAACwm9R3pk/s1600/frock.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
There is a fair amount of tweaking and adjusting that needs to happen for New Frock 2.0, but this is a functional garment that is comfortable. Also visible here is the velvet sash I made to go with it. Could probably have done with a longer one, but I might have gone mad if I'd had to sew it for a moment longer.<br />
<br />
For bonus points, the lacing rings as I was attaching them:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCGtpfBvqXxZKj3JK32q4cwlKKXxvdTmiSmqjEe4F3jU5WtfXoBZDxA6_PVMKe-gkyTMs37Cj7Bgnotw7CLZXWH3NrHQE-0CTLQ_4yMCfFrqGUgipHPTtm3eYbRNFHVu1PO7HNWf6sH2k/s1600/rings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCGtpfBvqXxZKj3JK32q4cwlKKXxvdTmiSmqjEe4F3jU5WtfXoBZDxA6_PVMKe-gkyTMs37Cj7Bgnotw7CLZXWH3NrHQE-0CTLQ_4yMCfFrqGUgipHPTtm3eYbRNFHVu1PO7HNWf6sH2k/s1600/rings.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
I also made an overdress to go with both this version and the silk one, once it's done. The overdress is reproduction 16th-century fabric, so a little later than the style of the dress, but I love it utterly.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhB2r0OZTvwRKYI9PWVJ4fqzUTjEBtcQyo4ftcguTxJt8YyATiQRwmUhljgiqTP5CzKJTU9Hyv5pd9n36BQPmcScwpifwTgAyFqT1d2jiHGE36FAJfa_cq8wGjZ4hUZUaM9LsEbudbKDs/s1600/overdress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhB2r0OZTvwRKYI9PWVJ4fqzUTjEBtcQyo4ftcguTxJt8YyATiQRwmUhljgiqTP5CzKJTU9Hyv5pd9n36BQPmcScwpifwTgAyFqT1d2jiHGE36FAJfa_cq8wGjZ4hUZUaM9LsEbudbKDs/s1600/overdress.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
The pattern on the fabric was perfectly centred, so I was able to use it as a cutting guideline. Consequently, it lines up <i>really</i> well.<br />
<br />
Here's a picture of the combo, taken at Raglan by my friend Ian Walden. (Photo used with permission.) I still need sleeves, a partlet, and a proper cap, but I'm pretty happy with how it came out!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCXoKqnuvxS56-GpZa2_p1h-x9gBgGBjeNTho6dbNXbUCEjhUq6qWQeSOcuegP0k1KAjN1imk1ISvGWWvi-cSNpiZbb3r5tY3OuojI47uKPnUEqLE50pi9QFsM49iHH5pS0Bv1n_Mm2DY/s1600/portrait.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCXoKqnuvxS56-GpZa2_p1h-x9gBgGBjeNTho6dbNXbUCEjhUq6qWQeSOcuegP0k1KAjN1imk1ISvGWWvi-cSNpiZbb3r5tY3OuojI47uKPnUEqLE50pi9QFsM49iHH5pS0Bv1n_Mm2DY/s1600/portrait.jpg" /></a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-10631860888153279562015-06-22T21:25:00.000+01:002015-06-22T21:26:46.930+01:00Suddenly, a necklace!I went up to the sewing and bead shop this morning to buy supplies. Found black cord that will do nicely for lacing at 35p a metre, which was excellent. I also got the supplies to turn my brooch into a Florentine-style necklace.<br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1435004503253_342" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/363/19058383982_4548e62069.jpg" /><br />
<br />
I have no experience with making jewelry, nor do I have any intention of taking it up. This piece is intended to do until such time as I have the money to buy the real thing; consequently, I've done very little research into how to assemble it. It just needs to look right.<br />
<br />
So. I inserted head pins through the pearl drops. (Plastic pearls, because the shop doesn't sell real pearls that were big enough.)<br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1435004594996_342" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/383/19058384242_94b72bfe56.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Then I started wrapping the head pin through the curlies of the brooch. I'd intended to use jump rings, but the ones I got were too small to fit around the bits of the brooch. This would have been easier if I could remember what I did with my needle-nose pliers, but hey, it worked.<br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1435004473385_343" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/347/18443308573_292bd552f0.jpg" /><br />
<br />
The first one was a bugger to get into place because I left the pin on the back of the brooch. The other two were not nearly so fiddly. I used my trusty Warhammer clippers to trim the head pins off after they'd been attached.<br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1435004631310_342" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/395/19037766366_b314a1b97d.jpg" /><br />
<br />
I got enough of the cord to use for the necklace too, and I think it looks rather well!<br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1435004666124_342" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3697/19037768396_2e5ce64780.jpg" />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-15980165598395469202015-06-21T19:20:00.000+01:002015-06-21T19:20:10.992+01:00In honour of a wee smallWe spent this weekend visiting Lord and Lady Coventry, two members of our SCA household. The main purpose of the visit was to meet their recently-born sprog, Nemo[1]. He is utterly adorable despite having thrown up on me twice.<br />
<br />
I'd made him a hat before he hatched, but I had a partially-worked piece of embroidery I designed back in March when Terry Pratchett passed away. As Nemo's parents are huge Pratchett fans, and as the quotation in question seemed remarkably apt for the start of a new life, I decided to add the relevant details and call it a birth sampler. I think it came out rather well, personally.<br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1434910799351_342" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/562/18840797179_9104fd5ba9.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Worked over two on 14-ct Aida cloth in some mysterious hemp embroidery floss. I ended up using it as it came from the hank rather than splitting it into strands. It seemed in keeping with the heavy fabric and juvenile style. Anyway, the parents seem to like it. At least, they bought a frame for it within an hour of me presenting them with it...<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[1]Not his actual name.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-72644821717021298832015-06-20T11:32:00.002+01:002015-06-20T11:34:29.349+01:00Next stepsV. 1 of the dress isn't finished yet, but a lot more goes into the outfit than just the dress. Apart from figuring out how to style my hair I have a whole range of accessories I also need to make.<br />
<br />
<img alt="Florentine painter Portrait of a Lady Technique: tempera on panel Measurements: 69 x 46 cm Date or Period: c. 1500 Item used to belong to the following collections: family von Ingenheim I suspect this painting is earlier than the estimate, based on dated Florentine portraits in this style of clothing. Current whereabouts of painting unknown." class="pinImage" src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/9e/a3/ea/9ea3ea422ddc556f0f42bcd9fbe01e0a.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<u>Sleeves</u><br />
<br />
The biggest thing I still need to make is a pair of sleeves. The fabric looks like velvet to me so I've acquired a couple of yards of silk/rayon velvet. While the upper sleeve is clearly a solid tube (you can see the inside of one arm and the outside of the other), the lower sleeve is open like a gauntlet. This is rather convenient, since it appears to be in the same proportion on the model's arm as my archery bracer.<br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1434796337559_343" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/314/18795682519_1ff5733671.jpg" /><br />
<br />
The tube of the upper sleeve appears to have a slight, angled sleeve cap rather than the rounded shape that would let it rest flush against the torso, and the bottom edge appears likewise angled (albeit more sharply). The angles could be an illusion caused by the puff of camicia protruding from underneath, but certainly at the bottom edge the camicia is clearly draping down and away from the upper sleeve.<br />
<br />
What I am particularly uncertain of is whether I ought to line the sleeves. I'm inclined to think yes, simply to protect the edges of the velvet.<br />
<br />
<u>Sash</u><br />
<br />
The narrow sash appears to be made of the same fabric as the sleeves. I'll cut the velvet the full length of the piece, which is 2m plus about 6 inches. (The seller cut it very generously!)<br />
<br />
<u>Partlet</u><br />
<br />
Our subject is wearing a sheer partlet that somehow fastens under the arms and miraculously stays put over the bosom. Tyger Friend theorizes that part of the weird stuff going on with the lacing is actually a brooch that holds the partlet in place. No idea how it fastens under the arms, nor what the shape of the back is. I have half a yard of gorgeous silk muslin that will be perfect for this once I figure out what the heck I need to do.<br />
<br />
<u>Cap</u><br />
<br />
Another mystery. Boss Laurel and I have been debating this cap. I reckon lace; she reckons embroidery. It's moot for this round of sewing anyway, as I haven't time to make either before August and will just be making a plain cap. Of course I haven't a clue how I'll do that either.<br />
<br />
<u>Pendant</u><br />
<br />
I've decided that instead of trying to source a round pendant, I'm going to go with a red stone set in gold with pearl drops. This pendant style shows up in several paintings from late-fifteenth-century Florence.<br />
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<img alt="Portrait of Giovanna Tornabuoni - Domenico Ghirlandaio | Museo Thyssen" class="pinImage" height="320" src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/83/a2/42/83a2420ee847428fd80657167f5af8cb.jpg" width="201" /><br />
<br />
I've found a brooch on Etsy that looks just right, and will be buying some pearls and wire on my next trip up to the sewing shop.<br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1434796308726_342" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3709/18981870465_5d8bcb2f55.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<u>Lacing</u><br />
<br />
Eventually the plan is to make round tabletwoven silk cord for all the lacing, but in the meantime I'm probably going to use bought round cord. If there's time before August I'll make my own. If not, meh. I'll get there eventually.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-46860210016064262992015-06-16T21:52:00.000+01:002015-06-18T16:04:53.084+01:00Progress!The outer shell/interlining layer is done!<br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1434487858231_342" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3940/18249720193_3ca676bf8c.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Next step is sewing the lining into the shell.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-63638268945666805072015-06-14T22:31:00.000+01:002015-06-18T16:05:20.504+01:00Slight change of plansBoss Laurel pointed out that I'd need something a little more structural to attach the padded interlining to the outer than just the hems. Consequently I had to do a little ripping.<br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1434316768470_342" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/403/18807675252_2baa05a798.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Oh well. 45 minutes of my life down the drain. Still, now that I've got that particular issue resolved, I can move on.<br />
<br />
I've done all the pad stitching. It's not really something you can see in the fabric, but it's gone from having a ton of drape to being able to support its own weight. Very cool stuff. (I was a little dubious, but it totally worked.)<br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1434316802550_342" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/416/18815334511_5d91b23d62.jpg" /><br />
<br />
The reason for the ripping is that I'm going to seam the outer and the interlining together at the same time, like so.<br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1434317090587_342" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/365/18786435416_077f095a0b.jpg" /> <br />
<br />
Again, I'm really glad that I decided to make this practice dress first. I'm discovering a whole lot of things that will make v. 2 much better. Take the lining, for example. Making that up first was a bad call. I hadn't considered how much the pad stitching was going to warp the underlining, nor how much bagging there would be between the inner and outer layers.<br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1434317137571_342" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/399/18624966638_6d2a1152c1.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Consequently, the lining isn't going to fit perfectly inside the bodice. It won't be terribly off, but it will bug me. So, next time: <br />
<ul>
<li>assemble padded interlining pieces</li>
<li>cut out outer shell fabric</li>
<li>seam outer and interlining together</li>
<li>finish edges of outer onto interlining</li>
<li>cut out and assemble lining to fit inside the completed shell</li>
<li>insert lining</li>
</ul>
Today I've been trimming the interlining to the right size to fit over the lining. Now that it's done, I can unpin the lining, sew down the edge of the outer shell, and get back on track.<br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1434317409815_342" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/412/18626584099_6762b27690.jpg" /><br />
<br />
For today's bonus, a little hairstyling experiment. If I'm going to pull this look off properly, I'm going to need the right hair! Still needs a little practice and a cap to go over it, but I'm getting there.<br />
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<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1434317438159_343" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/280/18802045972_e4f8bf82a0_n.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-84616115948978568622015-06-13T17:39:00.001+01:002015-06-18T16:05:29.703+01:00A digression into rectanglesWork on the bodice continues apace, but it occurred to me that I'm going to need a skirt in order for this project to become a dress. Everything I've been able to track down seems to indicate that the skirt ought to be a single rectangle of fabric, hemmed at the bottom and gathered at the waist to fit into the bodice. That actually works well with my fabric, as I had only just enough to cut out the bodice pieces and leave three long panels for the skirt.<br />
<br />
I can't sew the tube all the way shut until the bodice is done. I'm going to need to be able to pull it on over my head, and I may need to create a placket of sorts at the top of the waist to give me enough room. I wanted to get it hemmed, though, so I've partially sewn and finished that last long seam to allow me to do so.<br />
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<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1434213462920_342" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/536/18584597468_f8e0ac7ee6.jpg" /><br />
<br />
For now, back to the bodice. Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-13197363409200418332015-06-12T10:02:00.004+01:002015-06-18T16:05:38.049+01:00Bodicing, now with actual fabric content!Or, the Fiend found her pink sewing thread and there was great rejoicing.<br />
<br />
I'm deep into the process of assembling my experimental bodice at this point. Inevitably, it's rather more complicated than I'd expected. Totally vindicated on my decision to make an entire practice dress before playing with the silk.<br />
<br />
Take the fabric sandwich, for example. You've got your outer shell of fabric, which is what people will be able to see when you're wearing the dress.<br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1434099052131_342" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/469/18109324714_a06ec6fe69.jpg" /><br />
<br />
You've got your lining.<br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1434099017006_345" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/380/18705079016_1160c06580.jpg" /><br />
<br />
And then there's the padding sandwiched in between the two.<br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1434099103539_342" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/309/18733827791_012ded4433.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Because I'm doing all of this by hand rather than with a machine, I'm able to use the "period"[1] construction method of assembling the outer shell and lining separately, hemming each of them, and then whipping them together all the way around the edges. It makes for much smoother joins and also means that the lining is removable (and therefore can be washed separately[2]).<br />
<br />
My original plan had been to sew the padding directly to the shell of the lining. No dice, though. You see, when you're pad-stitching, the fabric layers pick up a slight curve from being draped over your hand.<br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1434099364878_347" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/387/18727764992_837a520b02.jpg" /><br />
<br />
That curve needs to follow the curve of the body. In this beautiful diagram (or not!) you can see the curves of fabric over the bosom. <br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1434099137077_342" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/535/18732578185_b5f8bb8646.jpg" /><br />
<br />
When pad-stitching, you work with the outside edge of the curve uppermost in your hand, as indicated by the arrow:<br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1434099167243_342" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/400/18111891323_bd48678974.jpg" /><br />
<br />
However, bodies go out AND in. We are not spheres. (Thankfully - just think of all those curved seams to make clothing!) Imagine, then, that the line of fabric continued down the body and dipped in under the bustline before going out again. You'd need to pad-stitch from the opposite side of the fabric.<br />
<br />
<img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/399/18544806008_690aa4549f.jpg" /><br />
<br />
If you were attaching the padding directly to the lining, you'd get unsightly chicken scratching thread lines all over the inside when you swapped to the reverse for the curves, and that wouldn't do at all. Fortunately there's a solution - more fabric!<br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1434099295442_342" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/541/18727703862_59c3d30e83.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Instead of attaching the padding to the lining, you attach it to an interlining (shown in green above). That way you can sew the curves from both sides and then it all gets hidden between the outer shell and lining fabrics. Delicious, delicious fabric sandwich. Mmmmm, interlining...<br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1434099577511_342" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/293/18731977135_73b2eb2dcc.jpg" /> <br />
<br />
Anyway.<br />
<br />
I have the lining assembled and hemmed. The outer shell is assembled, but will get hemmed over the interlining once it's finished. Current goal - pad-stitch ALL THE THINGS!<br />
<br />
<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1434099532718_346" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/340/18545215199_087d31e5e3.jpg" /><br />
<br />
(I attempted to do the pad-stitching freehand. Yeah. That didn't work so well. Sewing straight lines over a curved plane is hard. I've now chalked guidelines, so it should hopefully work better.)<br />
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[1] "Period" is SCA shorthand for "stuff that we can document as having happened or existed in Europe before 1600". Also, sorry, Boss Laurel. Bad apprentice, no cookie. (She scolds me for describing things as period.)<br />
<br />
[2] You know you've got the historical sewing bug when you choose a construction method based on whether or not you can disassemble the whole thing in order to better wash it.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-47321044643642180832015-06-09T08:56:00.001+01:002015-06-18T16:05:47.101+01:00Constructing the bodiceThe lack of extant clothing from this period of Florentine history means that a lot of conjecture has to go into making versions of it. One of the great mysteries of the high renaissance in Italy is how to create a supportive bodice that doesn't buckled under the weight of one's cleavage while still maintaining the soft, curved silhouette seen in portraits. Foundation garments? Boning? Something else?<br />
<br />
While some of the portraits in my inspiration pile have a layer in between the linen camicia and the laced outer<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="File:Mazziere, Agnolo di Domenico del — Bildnis einer jungen Frau — 1485 1490.jpg" data-file-height="600" data-file-width="389" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/77/Mazziere%2C_Agnolo_di_Domenico_del_%E2%80%94_Bildnis_einer_jungen_Frau_%E2%80%94_1485_1490.jpg" height="600" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="389" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Mazziere,_Agnolo_di_Domenico_del_%E2%80%94_Bildnis_einer_jungen_Frau_%E2%80%94_1485_1490.jpg">Photo from Wikipedia</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
some clearly do not.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="Selvaggia Sassetti (born 1470)" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ep/web-large/DT1442.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/436491?rpp=30&pg=1&ft=domenico&pos=2">From the Metropolitan Museum of Art</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
While it's entirely possible that some sort of foundation garment was worn under the camicia, I have no idea what it might have looked like or how to construct it, so I'm going to go with just the camicia.<br />
<br />
To me (and I'll be the first to admit I'm not an expert) it looks like these dresses aren't boned in the bodice. I have clothing with boned bodices, and there is always a shelf effect at the top. It's a result of the boning not following the curve of the body. All of the portraits I've found with this style of clothing lie flush against the skin.<br />
<br />
What I'm going to attempt, therefore, is the same construction method used to make shaped doublets. In between the outer fabric and the lining I'm going to use wool felt and pad-stitch it to create gentle shaping over the bust. My theory is that the layered felt will be stiff enough to keep the bodice in shape while still molding to my body. It should also minimize wrinkles and buckling under my bosom.<br />
<br />
Of course, I've never actually made a doublet in this manner. Before I start playing with the red silk, I've decided to make a practice version of the dress. It'll use the same construction method, but cheaper materials - in this case some cotton canvas, leftover wool from that cloak I butchered a while back, and cotton taken from an old skirt. That way I'll be able to make all the inevitable screw-ups and see how the dress wears in time to correct the problems in the "real" dress.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-9384989634701970722015-06-05T15:12:00.001+01:002015-06-18T16:05:55.713+01:00Bodices and Florentine portraitsI have an ample bosom. The most challenging part of any sort of fitted garment is always going to be the bodice, especially in situations like this where I won't be wearing any modern foundation garments underneath. Of course, I've never actually made any sort of structural bodice, and even if I had there aren't any extant garments from this period to get patterns from.<br />
<br />
Ah well, nothing like a challenge, right?<br />
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Weaving Friend came to visit and showed me her trick for starting a bodice block: using a pillowcase. It's already a torso-shaped tube, so the "careful" application of scissors, Sharpie, and pins resulted in something resembling a bodice.<br />
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<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1433511354122_343" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/440/18484489322_e2b7170f72_n.jpg" /><br />
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Incidentally, having someone walking around your body with a pair of fabric shears is pretty scary. Fortunately Weaving Friend is pretty awesome and only a little scary.<br />
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Once we'd gotten this made, I made a second block from the same polycotton bedding as the pillowcase. It's too flimsy to do any of the structural experimentation, but it's good as a way to measure things like the length of the straps.<br />
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<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1433511697227_342" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/559/17866167274_3fe7bc5180.jpg" /><br />
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Next up, the block for fitting and lacing. This one is made of a denim offcut I bought years ago. It's not what I'll be using for the garment, but it's heavy, stiff fabric, so I can get a sense of how the lined bodice will behave.<br />
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<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1433511878285_345" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/512/18302657539_70946afd61.jpg" /><br />
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There are some wrinkles under the bust, but not too many. What is very obvious in this picture is that I've cut the front panels too wide. There should be a gap of several inches between the laced fronts, but they meet in the middle all the way up.<br />
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<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1433512056349_342" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/369/18490663621_50fef77562.jpg" /><br />
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The side silhouette is pretty good, though looking at it I think the armscyes are too far forward. If I trim about a centimetre off the side seam on the front panels, that should fix both the armscye placement and the front opening. The straps are also too long. There ought to be a little more lift than there is.<br />
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And finally, the back view.<br />
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<img id="yui_3_11_0_3_1433512227066_342" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/496/18488849745_49bdba3a7b.jpg" /><br />
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This is where you can see the only real issue with the German chemise. There aren't any gores, which is what's causing the weird bunching over my butt. Other than that, the length is pretty good. And the bunching won't be visible once there's a skirt attached to the bodice.<br />
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You can see shoulder seams in this portrait:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/5c/Sandro_Botticelli_-_Ritratto_di_giovane_donna.jpg/159px-Sandro_Botticelli_-_Ritratto_di_giovane_donna.jpg" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/5c/Sandro_Botticelli_-_Ritratto_di_giovane_donna.jpg/159px-Sandro_Botticelli_-_Ritratto_di_giovane_donna.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Botticelli, c. 1475</td></tr>
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They are pretty far in the back, which is what I've done with the block in the above photos.<br />
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The composition of the original painting, along with the style and dress, suggests to me that it is most likely from the workshop of Ghirlandaio, giving it an approximate date of of 1480-1494. See how similar they look?<br />
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<img alt="Florentine painter Portrait of a Lady Technique: tempera on panel Measurements: 69 x 46 cm Date or Period: c. 1500 Item used to belong to the following collections: family von Ingenheim I suspect this painting is earlier than the estimate, based on dated Florentine portraits in this style of clothing. Current whereabouts of painting unknown." class="pinImage" src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/9e/a3/ea/9ea3ea422ddc556f0f42bcd9fbe01e0a.jpg" /> <br />
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<img alt="Portrait of a Lady" src="http://media.clarkart.edu/Web_medium_images/1955.938.jpg" /><br />
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This one even has a hint of a lace cap, too, and what looks like strings tied under the chin.<br />
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Helpfully, the original of my painting was last seen in the 1930s, but its current whereabouts are unknown. I'm going to try to track down the article in which it was cited, but that may take a while.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2239315380085952506.post-63310201723166138962015-06-04T21:05:00.001+01:002015-06-18T16:06:05.144+01:00And now for something completely different.A while ago I found a painting on Pinterest. I was looking for something else entirely, but it grabbed my attention and I've not been able to get it out of my head since.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid7-ltFjk_nb82Ux3PtSNhgFdKEhjrc6_Xnb4qoaKV42d1avti3n-FVvfqzBA-bmKwciofZnyEiOpf6_qEBTlQk22pHF9rxHqgXZxrXKeDFBFoac_4xJaSMB-CLb91mlBZmBC24BU_iNI/s1600/Malarz-florencki-Portrait-of-a-Lady_reference.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid7-ltFjk_nb82Ux3PtSNhgFdKEhjrc6_Xnb4qoaKV42d1avti3n-FVvfqzBA-bmKwciofZnyEiOpf6_qEBTlQk22pHF9rxHqgXZxrXKeDFBFoac_4xJaSMB-CLb91mlBZmBC24BU_iNI/s320/Malarz-florencki-Portrait-of-a-Lady_reference.jpg" width="215" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo taken from <a href="http://www.silesiancollections.eu/Works-of-art/Painting/Malarz-florencki-Portrait-of-a-Lady#">this website</a>.</td></tr>
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So, as a brief pause in the making of male Tudor clothing (musn't forget to post about the finished jerkin and puffy pants), I'm going to attempt some late 15th-century female Florentine clothing. You know, 'cause I have all that free time.<br />
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I've never made anything like this before, so the first attempt is probably going to be All Wrong. We'll see. First step is research. I've spent a chunk of my day <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/gennygrim/florentine-women-late-15th-century/">collecting paintings of women in similar clothing</a>. The first thing I've noticed is that the approximate date of this painting seems to be about 10-15 years off. Paintings of women in this style all appear to originate in the 1480s and 1490s, so I'm going to work with that.<br />
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<u>Components</u><br />
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<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/454/17842647404_ecf022780a_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>Of course there's a linen chemise (which I ought not to call a chemise but a camicia), because I need more linen undergarments in my life. The Tudor shirt won't work, since the neckline is radically different, but I do have a German chemise that goes under a Cranach gown that has disappeared somewhere in my mother's house. It has the round neckline and the puffy sleeves, and although it's gathered into a slight ruffle rather than a whitework band, it'll do as a starting point. (Did I mention I'm hoping to pull this outfit together by the beginning of August?)<br />
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<a href="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/454/17842647404_ecf022780a_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" id="yui_3_11_0_3_1433448014479_343" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/454/17842647404_ecf022780a_n.jpg" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8896/17842652764_1a4126ac1f_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" id="yui_3_11_0_3_1433448042554_343" src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8896/17842652764_1a4126ac1f_n.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hmm. Possibly I need more sun...</td></tr>
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Some of the portraits have some sort of contrasting panel over the camicia underneath the bust lacing. <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/570620215263951355/">Some clearly don't</a>, based on the way the layer of white fabric is bunched up. Since I'm going to be wearing this in August, I'd rather have as few layers as possible.<br />
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Over the camicia I'll be wearing a gown with a front-lacing bodice, then. I'm not entirely sure what's going on with the bars at the top of the laced opening. They look like brass rods, and then lacing cord underneath with some sort of brooch/ornament/flower tucked under.<br />
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The sash and sleeves look to me to be made of black velvet. The sleeves are in two pieces, laced together at the elbow and forearm. It's not clear how they're attached to the dress. They do seem to be attached only at a single point, though, which to me implies that they are either pinned on or laced on. If they were sewn there would be more of a flat seam than the single point of connection that's visible here.<br />
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There's a sheer silk partlet over the top of the bodice.<br />
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She's wearing a round pendant that appears to be metal, strung onto some sort of black cord that's looped twice around her throat. She also has on a single ring that appears to be set with a stone or stones.<br />
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She's got a really unusual cap on. Although the hairstyle is what seems to be the usual Florentine 'do for this period, the caps are usually plain linen. This appears to be either lace or sheer embroidered silk.<br />
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And although they're not visible, I will need some sort of shoes and stockings. More research there, since I've no idea what would be appropriate.<br />
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Eventually I'll need one of the loose overgowns, too. Not by August, though. I'm ambitious, not insane.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04349250745380887700noreply@blogger.com0